Iron Heart have been doing their thing since 2002. They’re one of the longest-standing denim brands on the rails here at Rivet & Hide, where they’ve garnered a well-earned reputation for their heavyweight fabrics and bomb-proof construction. Iron Heart’s heavy-duty, over-engineered-by-nature ethos informs everything the brand put their hand to. From their chunky and windproof N1 deck jackets to their ultra heavyweight flannel westerns and work shirts, Iron Heart’s wares are built to stand the test of time.
This is particularly true of Iron Heart’s selvedge denim jeans, some of which rank among the heaviest in the world. All of Iron Heart’s five-pocket jeans come sanforized and one-washed to remove the shrinkage and its associated guesswork (more on sanforization here).
That said, the intricacies of each fit still benefit from a brief explanation. So if you’ve been looking at a pair of Iron Heart jeans but are still unsure which fit suits you, read on.
The 634 “Straight” Fit
Straight cut, mid-rise, roomy
The 634 is Iron Heart’s OG fit. It’s loosely based around the classic ‘60s-era Levi’s 501. You can expect a mid-rise jean with a relatively open top block and a roomy straight leg. The result is still a sharp, straight cut just without any billowing or exaggerated swinging at the leg opening. Iron Heart consider this to be their signature cut. It’s an easy-wearing style that works with a diverse range of body types.
Why we like the 634: “The wider leg opening on Iron Heart’s 634 cut makes for a very versatile cut, one that can be styled with boots and sneakers alike.”
The 666 “Slim Straight” Fit
Straight cut, slim, mid-rise
Iron Heart’s 666 fit strikes a fine balance between the classic and contemporary slim jean. Also known as the “Devil’s Fit”, it has a low-to-mid rise with a slim fit throughout the entire leg. Iron Heart themselves refer to this as a slim jean for grown-ups. It’s a solid option for anyone who might be looking for a slim and straight silhouette that doesn’t cross the line into skinny territory.
Why we like the 666: “The 666 presents the perfect option for those who find the 555 to be too slim and 888 too roomy. It’s an excellent middle ground, and it can pull double duty as a more formal denim, it that’s your thing. Especially in black. It’s a solid step up from the likes of your Nudie Grim Trim or Edwin ED-55.”
The 555 “Super Slim” Fit
Super slim, mid-to-high rise
Iron Heart’s 555 fit is a self-titled “Super Slim” cut. The jean is snug through the whole leg - so the top block, knee, and leg opening are all fairly narrow. The rise here is notably higher than both the 634 and 666 - resulting in Iron Heart’s slimmest-fitting pair of jeans. There’s not much in the way of taper here, so the 555 can safely be considered a straight-fitting slim.
Why we like the 555: “This is the slimmest of the IH cuts, with a rise comparable to that of the 888. It’s great for taller guys with slimmer legs, but it may be a challenge for those with bigger thighs. Those needing a little more room in the thigh than the 555 provides might want to consider Iron Heart’s 888 fit.”
The 777 “Slim Tapered” Fit
Slim cut, low-rise, tapered
Iron Heart’s 777 denim is a more modern take on the slim fit. It has a low-rise, a snug top block, and a steady taper from the knee to the leg opening. Think of this as the 666’s younger, tapered brother. The lower rise means that the 777 sits at the hip for a more contemporary look. This is one for slimmer guys and those used to slimmer jeans - but do keep that lower-sitting waist in mind when sizing. You can always check out our Measurement Guide here if you need a helping hand.
Why we like the 777: “The lower rise on the 777 makes it an excellent choice for customers with slim legs but thicker midsections. It’s a good alternative to the more aggressively tapered offerings from Pure Blue Japan and Momotaro Jeans. The low rise/tapered leg combo also makes for a more casual jean that looks great with sneakers.”
The 888 “Relaxed Tapered” Fit
Relaxed tapered, high rise, slim silhouette
The 888 is Iron Heart’s relaxed tapered style. It has a high rise with a more generously-cut thigh and a gradual taper from the knee down. The wider thigh and steady taper make for a more forgiving fit whilst still allowing for a clean, sharp look. This makes it a great go-to for those with bigger thighs who still want to shoot for a slimmer silhouette overall. The higher rise also lends a more classic look and serves to lengthen the leg a little.
Why we like the 888: “Iron Heart’s 888 cut is best considered an “athletic fit”. Perfect for customers with bigger thighs who are still after that tapered smart finish. Especially good for customers who find the 634 to have too classically wide a leg, the 888 provides a traditional roomy fit with a more modern look overall.”
