How to Care for Selvedge Denim

Learning how to take care of selvedge denim is the best way to ensure you are getting the best out of them. So, we’ve put together this guide to help you learn how to look after raw denim jeans.

Step 1: Identify your denim - Denim Care Varies for Sanforized or Unsanforized Jeans

Before you can care for your jeans appropriately, you must work out whether your jeans are sanforized or not. You can usually find this information in the product description throughout our site. If shopping in-store, our team members will gladly help you. 

Read our full guide to sanforized and unsanforized denim.

The two different types of jeans require different denim care.

What is sanforized denim?

Sanforized denim is denim that manufacturers treat after weaving to prevent shrinkage

The sanforization process uses steam and pressure to shrink and stretch the new fabric. Sanforized denim will have minimal shrinkage because of this process, most pairs will lose only about 0.5”-1” in length with a wash. 

Does sanforized denim shrink?

Manufacturers pre-shrink sanforized denim during treatment, so it shrinks very little and doesn’t need soaking before wear. Feel free to start wearing it right away. 

Having said that, some wearers prefer to soak their sanforized jeans, to remove some of the starch. In doing so, they get the minimal shrinkage in length out of the way. 

What is unsanforized denim?

Unsanforized denim, otherwise known as shrink-to fit or loomstate, has not undergone the sanforization process. Unsanforized jeans tend to have a rougher texture and hairier feel in comparison to sanforized fabrics. They require an initial soak and will shrink by about 10%. 

Do jeans stretch over time?

Yes, jeans can stretch over time, especially with regular wear. Sanforized jeans hold their shape better due to pre-treatment. While unsanforized jeans may stretch more as they break in. The amount of stretch also depends on the denim weight and how tightly it's woven.

Explore our editorial to find fit guides for individual brands, to understand your jeans inside and out.

Step 2: Preparing your Jeans: The Initial Soak

When soaking, always turn your jeans inside out. You then have two options.

Put your jeans in the bathtub in lukewarm water for around 30 minutes. Agitate the jeans so the cotton fibres absorb the water whilst the shrinkage takes place.

Alternatively, put your jeans in the washing machine. Ensure the washing cycle uses warm water and do not use any laundry detergent.  

Soaking your jeans is an effective way to remove most or all of the shrinkage. We suggest avoiding soap, to keep some of the starch that helps form defined creases in a new pair. For best results we recommend at least two soaks.

Can you put jeans in the dryer?

Using a tumble dryer is not advised and can damage the jeans or leave vertical creases in a new pair. Avoid the spin cycle and hang your jeans to air dry. 

Step 3: Keeping clean - How to Wash Selvedge Jeans

When it comes to washing jeans, remember these top tips:

  • Avoid hot wash cycles - as this will damage the fibres in the denim.
  • Wash inside out to help avoid streaks appearing.
  • Use a minimal amount of gentle washing powder.
  • Remove from the machine, flatten out and hang dry as soon as the cycle completes.
  • Never use a tumble dryer!

How Often Should Jeans Be Washed?

Your jean washing schedule will depend on the look you want to achieve:

  • Wash your jeans more often for a lower contrast, vintage fade.
  • Wash less often for higher contrast at creases and points of abrasion.

If you desire high-contrast fades, we suggest waiting up to five or six months of daily wear before the first wash. After this initial settling-in period, begin washing your jeans fairly frequently: once every 1-2 months.  

After the first wash, the creases on your jeans will be well-defined. At this stage, it's safe to wash them more often and you will continue to see the denim's colour evolve. 

This will also help to preserve the denim and the stitching, which is more prone to breakage with multiple long periods without washing.  Make sure you turn your jeans inside out every time you wash them. 

You can spot clean your pair of jeans without putting them on a wash cycle. Simply use a damp cloth with cold water to remove the excess soil and let it air dry.  

Step 4: Planning for the future - How to avoid crotch blowouts

Soaking or washing your jeans helps strengthen the cotton fibres, particularly in high-stress areas like the crotch. This can go a long way in preventing those dreaded crotch blowouts.

In general, slimmer fits are more prone to wear and tear in that area, simply because there's more tension on the fabric. If you're keen to reduce the risk, consider switching to a wider-leg style or a relaxed tapered fit — both offer more room and less strain.

Top Tip for Jeans that Last a Lifetime: Don’t wash after every wear

If you want your jeans to last for years, make sure to wash them from time to time. There is little point in having killer contrast fades if they fall apart.

Remember: you only need to wash jeans when they are unbearably dirty or start to host an odour. You certainly don’t need to wash your jeans after every wear.

You may want to invest in a quality detergent, specifically designed for denim. Consider an enzyme-free liquid laundry detergent.

If you’re unsure of where to start with looking after your jeans, speak to a member of our team about our pre-purchase washing service.

In the meantime, explore our wide range of selvedge jeans to embark on your next jeans care journey.