Raw Selvedge denim is a uniquely beautiful thing - a starchy, slow-woven twill dipped in vats of living colour. It’s crunchy and unyielding to the hand at first, but soon rewards a wearer’s patience with a custom fit and the utmost comfort. But the biggest challenge associated with raw selvedge denim lies not in its break-in but in its sizing.
Raw, “unsanforized” denim is a tricky and unpredictable fabric; it’s guaranteed to shrink after its first few washes. It takes forethought, planning, and a small leap of faith. To even the most seasoned of denim enthusiasts, shrink-to-fit denim is a roll of the dice.
This risk factor is why we made the decision to one-wash all of our unsanforized jeans from here on out. This single wash helps us retain the natural qualities of raw, unsanforized denim whilst removing the sizing guesswork.
But if that leaves you confused about the differences between unsanforized, sanforized, and one-washed denim, you're not alone. Read on for a little guide to the key differences.
What’s the difference between sanforized, unsanforized, and one-washed denim?
Simply put, Sanforized refers to pre-shrunk, ready-to-wear denim. Unsanforized refers to loomstate, shrink-to-fit denim. One-washed refers to soaking unsanforized denim in water to remove initial shrinkage. Learn more about each of the processes below:
Sanforized denim meaning
Sanforization is essentially a set of processes used to treat raw denim before cutting into jeans. Typically, selvedge fabric feeds through a sanforization machine, which treats the material with heat, steam, and pressing. This sanforization process removes the shrinkage and makes for a more stable denim. The pressing of the fabric typically results in a smoother, more uniform denim.
Unsanforized denim meaning
Unsanforized denim, on the other hand, skips this heating process entirely. The untreated or “loomstate” selvedge denim is left as is, and will therefore shrink upon its first wash. Sometimes, unsanforized denim will shrink up to two or three tag sizes.
The lack of steaming, singeing, and pressing also means that the denim retains its full, fresh-off-the-loom character. The cotton yarns impart uniqueness, the weave creates texture, and the dyeing achieves irregular shades of indigo. The unsanforized denim process retains these elements in all their glory.
One-washed denim meaning
One-washed denim refers to jeans made from either sanforized or unsanforized selvedge denim. These jeans are cut, sewn, and assembled before undergoing a careful rinse. Either the brand themselves carry out this process, or we do it in-house here at our Rivet & Hide stores.
Make sure to not confuse one-washed denim for washed or stonewashed denim. These processes are designed to artificially age or distress denim. One-washing respects and retains the qualities of raw denim but simply removes that initial shrinkage.
Some of our brands - like Iron Heart and Momotaro - offer their denim sanforized and one-washed. This makes for a stable and comfortable denim that’s very easy to size.
What are the benefits of one-washed selvedge denim?
When we one-wash unsanforized denim, we get the best of both worlds. We obtain a rich loomstate fabric with a tonne of natural character and practically no shrinkage. One-washing denim comes with a bunch of other benefits, too. Namely:
Easy sizing with pre-shrunk denim
Pre-shrinking before the jeans even hit the rails makes for simple sizing. You no longer have to guesstimate what your size will be post-soak. What you see on our size guides is exactly what you’ll get. Your new jeans will be ready to roll from the moment they leave our rails and hit your legs.
Easy Hemming for a customised fit
Likewise, we can customise the inseam of your new pair of jeans by hemming them before we ship them to you. No more waiting for that first soak before you hem your jeans. Find out more about our Union Special Hemming Service.
Added comfort without stiffness
Both sanforized and unsanforized denim comes with some initial stiffness and starchiness. One-washing your jeans helps to loosen things up for a softer hand and a quicker, more gentle break-in.
Added character and unique features
One-washing removes any out-the-door sheen or uniformity in the denim and kickstarts its natural evolution. Whether that amounts to some added range and depth in a denim’s indigo tones or an intensifying of a yarn's “slubby” texture depends entirely on the fabric.
Added roping for texture
One-washing unsanforized denim induces slight puckering around the seams due to shrinkage. This causes the much-coveted “roping” effect seen around the hems and pockets of a well-worn pair of jeans.
Longer-lasting denim
Not a product of the one-wash per se, but washing your jeans on at least a semi-regular basis can help prevent “blowouts”. Additionally, semi-regular washes can extend the life of your denim. For more info on looking after your denim, check out our handy guide.
In summary:
- Sanforized denim is pre-washed and will not shrink after a wash.
- Unsanforized denim is NOT pre-washed and WILL shrink after a wash.
- One-washed denim is unsanforized or sanforized denim that has been pre-washed to remove shrinkage and soften things up.
What unsanforized & one-washed jeans are available at Rivet & Hide?
We’re so glad you asked. We stock a number of Japanese selvedge denim brands that offer unsanforized denim. Pure Blue Japan, Samurai, Studio D’Artisan to name a few. These brands all produce stunning, unsanforized jeans with the most impressive, coveted fabrics in jean-making.
Shop our full range of selvedge denim jeans.