Type I, II, & III Denim Jacket Styles Explained
The denim jacket is a rugged, versatile, and instantly recognisable staple of any man’s wardrobe. First conceived as functional outerwear for labourers, it evolved over the decades into a global style icon, worn by everyone from miners and mechanics to film stars and musicians.
Perhaps the most recognisable denim jacket styles are those pioneered by American workwear brand-turned-fashion giant Levi’s. Their iconic designs are broadly categorised into three “types”: Type I, Type II, and Type III - each marking a distinct chapter in design, cultural adoption, and lasting influence.
These “types” are terms largely popularised by collectors and historians to describe specific Levi’s models, but their legacy has extended far beyond Levi’s, inspiring countless reproductions and reinterpretations from some of our favourite Japanese brands.
Read on for a quick breakdown of the Type I, Type II, and Type III denim jacket styles.
The Type I Denim Jacket
Era: ~1905—1950s
Original Levi’s Model: 506XX
The Type I Jacket is a foundational piece that has influenced over a century of denim design.
The Type I is the original denim jacket, designed and produced by Levi’s for labourers, miners, and ranchers in the early 20th century. The Type I on the jobsite: cropped, boxy, built for function and movement. Levi’s called it the 506XX when they introduced it back in 1905. Nowadays, vintage collectors consider it a grail piece. Historically, the Type I was made from a lighter-weight selvedge denim, sitting closer to a work shirt than a jacket. Originals are hard to find, but Japanese reproduction brands have done an excellent job of keeping the style alive.
Telltale signs of a classic Type I jacket include:
- Single front pocket (left chest, with button flap)
- Cinching back buckle (“clinch” strap for waist adjustment)
- Boxy fit — shorter in length and wider in the body
- Knife pleats down the front, allowing the jacket to expand when needed
- Selvedge construction
- No side seams (in earlier models)
- Copper rivets at stress points
Modern Alternative: The Real McCoy’s delivers a best-in-class rendition of the iconic Type I with their Lot. 001J “Early Model.” Woven on some of Japan’s oldest shuttle looms to precisely match the thread count of vintage fabric, this jacket is authenticity at its finest. The yarns are dip-dyed and air-dried seven times, creating that unmistakable, Levi’s-style indigo blue that fades so beautifully with wear. A true shrink-to-fit piece, it’s made for those who want the full, unfiltered selvedge denim experience.
The Type II Denim Jacket
Era: ~1953–1962
Original Levi’s Model: 507XX
The Levi’s Type II evolved from the Type I with a handful of subtle refinements. It kept the utilitarian DNA and added more symmetry and balance to the design. Still very much a workwear piece, but edging closer to everyday wear.
Introduced in 1953 alongside the now two-sided Red Tab, the Type II (507XX) added a second chest pocket, replaced the back buckle with side cinch tabs, and retained the signature knife pleats. The fit remained short and boxy. First worn by blue-collar workers, it soon found its way onto the backs of greasers, bikers, and outlaws, immortalised in both history books and on the big screen.
Remember Martin Sheen in Badlands? Yup, that was a Type II.
Key features of the Type II include:
- Two front pockets (both chest, with button flaps)
- Side cinch tabs instead of the back buckle
- Pleated front (retained from Type I)
- Boxy, but slightly more structured fit
- Still short in length, waist-length
Modern Alternative: Dawson’s Type II (above) updates the classic boxy fit with a slightly longer body - still true to its retro edge, but much easier to wear with modern outfits. Side adjusters, pleats, and dual button-down pockets honour the spirit of the original. Designed in the UK and woven in Japan on century-old Toyoda shuttle looms using organic cotton, this jacket blends heritage with craft. The 3-Year Wash emulates the fading of a hard-worn piece and feels like a well-loved favourite from day one.
The Flat Head's Type II (below) is an iconic style for us. It's a '50s-inspired design complete with contrast yellow and orange stitching. The denim is a beauty, too: a custom 14.5oz selvedge with a pronounced, slubby texture that will only intensify with wear. Out of stock right now, but it will return this autumn. Join our mailing list to hear about restocks and new arrivals before anyone else.
The Type III Denim Jacket
Era: 1962 – Present day
Original Levi’s Model: 557XX → 70505
Arguably the most iconic and widely imitated denim jacket of all time, Levi’s Type III was a radical update for a new generation. Slimmer, longer, and sharper, it traded the pleats for V-shaped seams, setting a more fashion-forward tone. Later versions — especially post-1980 — added handwarmer pockets for utility and bar tacks in place of rivets. Built to hold up and look good doing it, the Type III quickly became the template for all denim jackets that followed.
Often called the “Trucker Jacket” thanks to its popularity with long-haul drivers, the Type III was originally designated the Levi’s 557XX, later 70505. For nearly 60 years, it has been a cultural cornerstone, worn by everyone from cowboys to Kurt Cobain.
Common features of a Type III Jacket include:
- Slimmer fit, longer torso
- Pointed “V” seams on the chest (instead of pleats)
- Two chest pockets (with button flaps)
- Optional handwarmer pockets (introduced in later versions)
- No cinch or pleats
- Tapered waist, more tailored silhouette
Modern Alternative: Few have nailed the Type III formula quite like Iron Heart. Their take on the iconic Trucker stays true to the original while adding subtle refinements: a slightly longer body, a more tailored sleeve, and dual hand-warmer pockets that double as internal storage. Offered in a range of top-tier selvedge fabrics — including their flagship 21oz heavyweight denim — it’s a modern classic built to go the distance.
